Kazbegi, a church under a mountain
Kazbegi is about three hours north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Road, and the last hour climbs into a different scale of landscape. I walked up to Gergeti Trinity Church at dawn, the small stone church on its ridge, with Mount Kazbek behind it catching the first pink. The only sounds were my breathing and a dog that adopted me halfway.
I walked to the Gveleti waterfall and into the Truso Valley, where mineral springs stain the ground orange and white. In the guesthouse kitchen I was taught to fold khinkali, badly. Evenings were the peaks turning red, dinner by a wood stove, and then the stars, which up here are not polite about how many there are.

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