Field notes from a life in transit ●  currently: Kazbegi, Georgia

Sofia Costa

Places  ·  Georgia

Kazbegi

7 frames · 13 to 20 September 2026

Kazbegi, a church under a mountain

Kazbegi is about three hours north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Road, and the last hour climbs into a different scale of landscape. I walked up to Gergeti Trinity Church at dawn, the small stone church on its ridge, with Mount Kazbek behind it catching the first pink. The only sounds were my breathing and a dog that adopted me halfway.

I walked to the Gveleti waterfall and into the Truso Valley, where mineral springs stain the ground orange and white. In the guesthouse kitchen I was taught to fold khinkali, badly. Evenings were the peaks turning red, dinner by a wood stove, and then the stars, which up here are not polite about how many there are.

Field notes · Kazbegi
  1. Hike to Gergeti Trinity Church before sunrise, roughly 90 minutes up from Stepantsminda, for first light on Mount Kazbek behind it.
  2. Shared minibuses leave Tbilisi's Didube station for Stepantsminda in about three hours; the road can close after heavy winter snow.
  3. Reach Truso Valley by 4x4 to the trailhead, then walk; it runs close to the South Ossetia line, so check current access before going.
  4. Stay two or three nights in a family guesthouse, where dinner is often included, and pack warm layers even in summer.
kazbegi waterfall hike: Woman walking a mountain trail in Kazbegi, Georgia, wildflowers and grazing horses around her, high p

Gveleti Waterfall Walk: A Quiet Morning in Kazbegi, Georgia

№ 204 · 13 September 2026

truso valley kazbegi: Woman walking past rust-orange travertine mineral mounds in Truso Valley, Georgia, with abandoned stone

Truso Valley, Kazbegi: Walking Into Georgia's Mineral

№ 205 · 14 September 2026

kazbegi guesthouse khinkali: Woman with floured hands folding khinkali dumplings beside an older host woman in a warm-lit Kaz

Kazbegi Guesthouse Kitchen: Learning Khinkali the Slow Way

№ 206 · 15 September 2026

kazbegi sunset caucasus: Caucasus mountain peaks above Stepantsminda glowing gold and violet at sunset, a single eagle circli

Sunset Over Kazbegi: Alpenglow on the Caucasus Peaks

№ 207 · 16 September 2026

gergeti trinity church hike: Stone medieval church on a green ridge above Kazbegi, Georgia, Mount Kazbek hidden in cloud, sof

Gergeti Trinity Church at Dawn: Hiking Kazbegi, Georgia

№ 208 · 17 September 2026

kazbegi khinkali dinner: Wooden table in a Stepantsminda guesthouse with khinkali dumplings, warm stove light, dark mountain

Dinner in Kazbegi: Khinkali by the Wood Stove in

№ 210 · 19 September 2026

kazbegi stargazing georgia: Dark mountainside above Kazbegi, Georgia with the Milky Way vivid over the Caucasus peaks under a

Stargazing in Kazbegi: Night Sky Over the Caucasus Mountains

№ 211 · 20 September 2026

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