Field notes from a life in transit ●  currently: Tbilisi, Georgia

Sofia Costa

Places  ·  Georgia

Tbilisi

13 frames · 1 to 12 September 2026

Tbilisi, balconies leaning into the light

Tbilisi looks like it was built by people who loved wood and never threw anything away. The old town is carved balconies leaning at angles that would worry an engineer, vines over every courtyard, cats on every step. One morning started in a bakery at dawn, watching shoti bread slapped against the inside of a round clay oven.

The sulfur baths in Abanotubani smell exactly as you fear and feel better than you hope. At the Dry Bridge market I found Soviet cameras, medals and a bust of someone nobody wanted to claim. At golden hour I rode the funicular up Mtatsminda. Evenings were khinkali, a supra with long toasts, and amber wine from a qvevri cellar. Georgians are generous. Pace yourself.

Field notes · Tbilisi
  1. Photograph the old town balconies in Sololaki and around Betlemi Street in late afternoon, when side light picks out the carved wood.
  2. The Dry Bridge flea market runs most days but is fullest on weekends; go in the morning, before the sun gets high and harsh.
  3. Book a private room at the Abanotubani bathhouses for an hour, and photograph the brick domes from the street above in early light.
  4. Eat khinkali by hand, holding the knot, try shotis puri from a basement bakery, and give Tbilisi four days using the cheap metro and taxis.
tbilisi sulfur baths morning: Brick domed rooftops of Tbilisi's sulfur bathhouses steaming in cool morning air, Narikala fort

Abanotubani Sulfur Baths: A Steaming Morning in Tbilisi

№ 192 · 1 September 2026

old tbilisi morning walk: Narrow lane in old Tbilisi with overhanging carved wooden balconies, morning light, a cat sitting o

Old Tbilisi Mornings: Wooden Balconies and Backstreet Cats

№ 193 · 2 September 2026

dry bridge market tbilisi: Dry Bridge flea market in Tbilisi, Soviet medals and cracked porcelain on a blanket, midday sun, s

Dry Bridge Flea Market, Tbilisi: Soviet Relics at Midday

№ 194 · 3 September 2026

tbilisi funicular view: View through a scratched funicular window of Tbilisi rooftops flattening below, hazy ridge and suburb

Mtatsminda Funicular: Tbilisi Seen From Above at Golden Hour

№ 195 · 4 September 2026

tbilisi supra dinner: Long table at a traditional Tbilisi restaurant with bread, walnuts and pomegranate, warm low light, a t

Tbilisi Supra: Inside a Georgian Feast of Wine and Song

№ 196 · 5 September 2026

old tbilisi at dusk: Carved wooden balconies on crumbling hillside houses in old Tbilisi at dusk, warm lamplight in windows,

Old Tbilisi at Dusk: The Balconies of a Fading Hillside

№ 197 · 6 September 2026

tbilisi shoti bread bakery: Baker leaning into a clay tone oven in Tbilisi, slapping flatbread dough onto the hot wall, steam

Tbilisi Bread Oven at Dawn: Inside a Shoti Bakery

№ 198 · 7 September 2026

dry bridge market tbilisi: Vendor's blanket at Tbilisi's Dry Bridge market with Soviet medals, old cameras, and amber beads u

Dry Bridge Market Tbilisi: Soviet Relics in Morning Light

№ 199 · 8 September 2026

khinkali tbilisi georgia: Woman eating khinkali dumplings by hand at a small Tbilisi restaurant table, steamed window, dim wa

Khinkali Night in Tbilisi: A No-Menu Dumpling Spot Worth

№ 200 · 9 September 2026

tbilisi sulfur baths morning: Woman wrapped in a white sheet outside a domed sulfur bathhouse in Tbilisi, steam rising in coo

Sulfur Baths of Tbilisi: A Quiet Morning in Abanotubani

№ 201 · 10 September 2026

tbilisi sulphur baths morning: Brick domes of Abanotubani sulphur baths in Tbilisi at dawn, steam rising, cliff and waterfall

Abanotubani Sulphur Baths: A Quiet Morning in Tbilisi

№ 202 · 11 September 2026

qvevri wine cellar tbilisi: Low-ceilinged Tbilisi wine cellar, amber wine in clay cup, wooden board with bread and walnut pas

Qvevri Wine Cellar in Tbilisi: An Evening Underground

№ 203 · 12 September 2026

tbilisi airport night layover: Empty airport gate seating under flat ceiling light, dark apron beyond glass with one illumina

Tbilisi Airport at Night: A Quiet Layover Before Tokyo

№ 212 · 21 September 2026

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