Porto, damp stone and river gold
Porto is granite, wet laundry and a river that keeps changing color. I walked the top deck of the Dom Luís I Bridge early, while the metro hummed past and the Ribeira below was still deciding whether to wake up. I was at Livraria Lello for opening, the only time you see the staircase instead of the backs of heads.
The best hours came at the end of the day. Sunset in Miragaia, then crossing to Gaia on damp stone and old wood, and two glasses on a barrel in a port cellar. I ate a francesinha in Bonfim under a tile of a ship, in a café whose name I still cannot pronounce. It is a very heavy sandwich. Plan the rest of your afternoon around it, preferably near a bench.

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