Field notes from a life in transit ●  currently: Amalfi Coast, Italy

Sofia Costa

Places  ·  Italy

Amalfi Coast

10 frames · 20 to 24 July 2026

The Amalfi Coast, after the daytrippers leave

The Amalfi Coast is vertical. Everything is up a staircase or down one, and the sea is always somewhere below, sometimes invisible in the haze. I walked the Path of the Gods at dawn, alone except for a goat with better balance than mine, and took the morning boat from Positano to Amalfi with my camera wrapped in a sweater against the spray.

Positano at nine is still pastel and polite. By noon it belongs to the tour boats. So I spent the middle of the day in the lemon terraces, and the evenings in Ravello, where the candles take over at a quarter to nine and the red mullet arrives as the sea goes dark. Two fingers of limoncello, a terrace, nobody left but the locals. That is the coast I came for.

Field notes · Amalfi Coast
  1. Start the Path of the Gods at Bomerano early in the morning and walk toward Nocelle, mostly downhill, while the trail is still cool.
  2. In summer the ferries between Positano and Amalfi are faster than the coast road; sit on the open deck for the view back at the villages.
  3. Ravello sits high above the sea and is calmest in the evening; the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone is best at golden hour.
  4. Give the coast four days from a single base, eat seafood and lemon desserts, and do not drive the coast road yourself in high season.
positano amalfi boat morning: Woman on a small boat taxi between Positano and Amalfi, wet hair blown by wind, limestone cliff

Positano to Amalfi by Boat: A Morning on the Water at 35mm

№ 127 · 20 July 2026

amalfi coast lemon groves: Knobbly Sfusato lemons hanging from branches on terraced Amalfi Coast hillside, golden hour light,

Lemon Groves at Golden Hour on the Amalfi Coast Terraces

№ 128 · 20 July 2026

path of the gods amalfi morning: Steep cliffside trail on the Path of the Gods above the Amalfi Coast, wild fennel and yellow

Path of the Gods at Dawn: Walking the Amalfi Coast Alone

№ 129 · 21 July 2026

amalfi coast night limoncello: Small glass of bright yellow limoncello on a stone terrace railing at night, distant Amalfi Co

Two Fingers of Limoncello Above an Invisible Sea

№ 130 · 21 July 2026

positano amalfi boat morning: Woman with wet dark hair on a small boat taxi, Amalfi Coast cliffs rising behind her in soft ea

Boat Taxi at Dawn: Positano to Amalfi by Sea in Morning Light

№ 131 · 22 July 2026

ravello dinner amalfi coast: Candlelit table with white linen tablecloth at a clifftop restaurant in Ravello, plate of red mu

Eight Forty-Three in Ravello, When the Candles Take Over

№ 132 · 22 July 2026

positano amalfi coast morning: Cliffside houses of Positano stacked down to the sea with the tiled dome of Santa Maria Assunt

Positano at 9AM: Film Photography on the Amalfi Coast

№ 133 · 23 July 2026

amalfi coast night limoncello: Small glass of bright yellow limoncello on a stone terrace railing at night, distant Amalfi Co

After the Daytrippers Leave: Night on an Amalfi Terrace

№ 134 · 23 July 2026

positano amalfi boat morning: Woman with wet dark hair on a small boat crossing between Positano and Amalfi, sea spray catchi

Boat Taxi at Dawn: Positano to Amalfi by Sea, Film in Hand

№ 135 · 24 July 2026

ravello amalfi coast dinner: Candlelit table with fresh red mullet on a white linen tablecloth at a clifftop restaurant in Ra

Red Mullet in Ravello, Served as the Sea Goes Dark

№ 136 · 24 July 2026

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